Hello everyone, After several years of being unable to pound steel,(I damaged my right shoulder badly), I am back on a limited basis. I would like to return to armour I started back then,(all I have left is the kabuto( my avatar pic)). I want to reproduce this style of armour, less kabuto. The details I would like to ask about first is the Kote, anyone have a pic simular to the one from this armour?
Michael, as I could tell from your number of posts, you're not new to this forum. I got curious and performed some gravedigging on your old threads, and I have to say that I like what I found! In fact, I bookmarked two of them right away. It makes me happy to see that we have an experienced blacksmith among us, so I echo Dave: welcome back!
Say, do you own a copy of Brian Price's "Techniques of Medieval Armour Reproduction", aka TOMAR? If so, would you recommend it? I'm considering getting it for my birthday... Dave, this book might be interesting for your metal bending efforts as well - if you don't have it already.
Dave, When doing curved surfaces like the shikoro, I use a 2 step process. Step 1 is to establish a mental radius of the curve( you will undersatnd why in a moment in step 2), see fig 1. To get the radius, find the center of curve (center back), run a line 90 degrees up. the other 2 lines are done the same way, except the line is at 25mm from end of plate. The point they intersect is your radius.
Step 2 is the actual forming of the plate. I use the hammer technique, but a roller works to. Mentally pin the radius point to the anvil, and pivot the piece on that axis. Use a bullnose cross peen hammer, (see fig 2), on the lower edge (not on the edge but close and only on the lower half of plate), follow the curve. As you hit the plate the hammer spreads the metal and causes it to curl. The reason for the radius point is the ensure a even curl in the plate, if you are off, the plate will skew and not be even.
David M, I had the book, I think I sold it when I sold all my blacksmith tools (thought I would never be able to work on metal again), but intend to get another. Yes I would highly recomend it.
Luc t, Yep I like that style. I will probably make another to include the fukigaeshi.
new question, Am I safe to assume that the large dimonds on the do are 100mm tall by 88mm wide?
Thanks. The shoulder was so bad that the doc said eather stop pounding or loose use of the arm (at the time my daughter was born, no thinking on that question). I damaged the ligamints (rips and torn)and the cup. had minor surgury on it 2 years ago to tighten it up. Now she tells me I can pound if I take it easy, if I feel any discomfort, stop. I have a friend who wants to learn basics and will help me, I will also be using machines like a foot operated power hammer to lessen the shoulder work.
I am wanting to do it in red. I have started to get my tools together. So I may be starting soon. Quick question, All the pics and illustrations show black or dark blue fabric used as the foundation. Would a dark green be out there as the fabric?
I was just asking because I couldn't remeber having seen a tatami gusoku with red plates, and I wasn't quite able imagine it - but then I went through your old thread Looking for more information and there was a photo of one. Looks pretty good!
It was also in that thread where you had asked just that question about fabric colours. Dave's answer was that he even has (had?) a red armour with green silk. So yes, dark green is something you can do - although we probably wouldn't mind seeing an example of the colour or even the fabric
Michael, there are almost no rules about color of fabric. The Japanese have anyhow their own taste when it comes to color. You can see it often on restored armor or newly wrapped tsuka (in case of swords)
Uwe, So say if I wanted a super bright green, almost a neon color, that would be period?
I am working on the rule for myself that it must be within the 1560-1600 time period, so the rules of how the armour should look during that time, (no nipple rings here). Besides the tatami style I like, its also been around a long time. The dimond plate, what time period would that be, I figure about 1580-1590?
Uwe, Looks like I still have much to learn, thought it was earlier. Which brings up new questions. I will be starting on my armour soon (near end of month), and the suneate will be the first piece to make. Question is, is the style of this suneate from the same period or is it a post piece? I like the Tateage style.
I found some fabric I like its called Kelly green, Here I have it under a prototype sode I did long ago and found recently while looking for my books.
Michael, shino suneate. Should fit armor's from the Muromachi as well as from the Edo period. I think it will be fine for your tatami project. The color, hmm... I would prefer a bit darker green?! But this is a matter of taste!
Michael, usually I really like that shade of green that you posted above, but I think that personally I'd go with something darker for an armour, as Uwe and Dave suggested. Feel free to post another coplour sample!
Your prototypes look really good to me! I hope that I'll be able to make such a nice kanmuri ita for my sode as well...
I like the evergreen! As Uwe said above, there's almost no rules regarding colour and it's a matter of taste, so the most important thing is that you like it yourself. But of course, if you ask for our opinion, we will tell you
This brings me to another question (as you may know I am using Anthony J. Bryant's web pages for most of the info), Because I am using a green solid for the fabric, what color do I need for the kikko fabric at the shoulders and collar? I think it should be a dark gray or dark blue. The plate will be brick red, with black lacing.
Edit.. I am in a bit of a pickle, I dont have enough of the evergreen fabric and I can not find anymore, was told at christmas they would have some, but not now.
what is the width of the suneate cords?, I am thinking 10mm for the cords that wrap around the leg, and the loops it goes through is 6mm. The leather patch, can it be the same color as the plates or must be brown or black?
The suneate cords can be differ in wide, 10 or 15 mm are ok I think. For the leather patch, "abumi zuri no kawa". How the name suggests, it is only necessary on armor for mounted use. In case of your tatami gusoku, I would omit it!
Repost of prevous question: Because I am using a green solid for the fabric, what color do I need for the kikko fabric at the shoulders and collar? I think it should be a dark gray or dark blue. The plate will be brick red, with black lacing.
Uwe, intresting, I only found 1 suneate that didnt have the patch and it was a vary cheap retainer piece, had only 4 splints, no mail. Would it help if I was to say I am doing a officer grade armour?